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Being a tree detective is challenging and fun. It is definitely the most economical and ecological way to alleviate problems before they get out of hand.
Our tree looks like it is dying, should we replace the tree?

Before taking drastic measures, it is important be a detective and investigate what affected the tree. Just replacing it may not alleviate the problem.

First think back to the condition of the tree last fall. Any past signs of stress, die back, or lack of vigor may indicate that the problem was well underway before this spring.

Next consider the number and types of problem trees. If several trees of the same species are affected, it may be a disease or pest that is the culprit. Most pests and diseases are specific to a particular species. It may be time to contact a tree professional, UC cooperative extension, or another resource to diagnosis the problem.

Cultural problems, however, do not always discriminate between plant species. If several different types of trees are in trouble or just one in particular while others of the same species seem fine, there may be a cultural problem. A cultural problem is caused by environmental factors such as soil, nutrient, water, weather, etc.

Make certain the plant tissue is actually dead. The sophisticated scratch test, which entails lightly scratching the ends of the branches with your fingernail, will let you know if there is die back. Green tissue along the stems is an indication of life. In that case, you best sit back and relax. Cold temperature or strong winds may have damaged the new leaves.

However, given the soil compaction and clay like soils of Roseville, it is very possible that poor drainage and excess water are the villains.

Too much water is definitely a problem big enough to kill a tree. Roots growing in waterlogged soil may die because they cannot absorb the oxygen they need to function normally.

Oxygen is stored in tiny pore spaces in the soil. Excess water pushes the air out of the soil pores, cutting off the needed air supply and inviting root damage. The dying roots cannot supply the plant with sufficient nutrients or water.

This problem may not seem obvious above the ground due to the buds the tree put out early in spring. As spring approaches, the buds swell using nutrients stored from last fall. The real problem occurs when the concurrent root growth below ground is halted due to wet conditions.

A drainage problem can be exacerbated if the planting area was heavily amended when the plant was transplanted. The amended area is like a bathtub, since the water does not readily drain into the surrounding compacted soil.

The best way to be sure water was the problem is to take a look at the roots. Besides the presence of actual water in the hole, there are other indications. There may be an absence or lack of fine roots. The bark of existing roots may slough off and the soil may have a distinct odor.

Any indication of poor drainage cannot be remedied just by replacing the plant. It is important to correct the problem or choose another location and planting procedure. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Now you're the doctor.

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Why is my tree loosing it's leaves in mid summer?

Without seeing the trees or knowing the symptoms, an exact diagnosis is impossible. However, it may be wind damage that affected your trees.

There are various levels of wind damage.

The most obvious result of high winds is a tree that either leans or completely falls over from the ground. For the most part, this is the result of a poorly developed root system or root damage or disease.

The second notable wind injury is limb breakage. Certain species with brittle wood are more susceptible to this. However, any tree with fruit-laden branches, weak branch connections, or located in an unusually windy area may lose branches.

If branches break due to wind, it is best to remove the branch with a clean cut below the break at the point of origin. If there was bark peel-back below the break, leave it alone. The tree will do what it can to heal. If it is the main leader that broke, the tree will try to replace it with new growth. You will probably need to do structural pruning in the future to select the best new leader.

Other forms of wind damage may be less noticeable right away and more difficult to associate with the wind. The effects will often appear long after the winds have ceased.

Stake damage occurs when the wind causes the tree to rub or hit against the stakes used to support the tree. The result will be wounds along the trunk and branches. Although these wounds may not be apparent, take a closer look and inspect the tree. Wounds serve as openings for pests and diseases that can weaken the tree.

To remedy stake damage, restake the tree to eliminate the contact. Or, if the tree is well rooted, remove the stakes altogether. As for the wounds, let the tree heal these on its own.

The most common form of wind damage is leaf scorch. Often leaf scorch is not detected until weeks later, long after the winds are forgotten.

Plants keep cool by allowing water to evaporate from the leaf surfaces, much like our bodies method of perspiration. Warm, dry winds cause the leaves to lose this moisture more rapidly than a plant's root system can replace it. The dryer the soil, the more difficult it is for the roots to find replacement water. Eventually, the leaves dry out.

The symptoms range from wilting leaves to dry brown leaves, especially at the leaf tips or along the veins. Dry leaves will eventually fall off. Even though the tree loses leaves, it does not mean the tree is dead. Most plants will recover and releaf once the wind or heat diminishes, as long as the roots find the moisture they need to grow and survive.

Trees in the same yard can be affected differently based on location, how long they have been planted, soil type, and when they were last watered.

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Why are branches falling from my tree?

Large living limbs falling from a tree seems odd, but is possible. In general, Liquidambar trees are notorious for branch failure due to their narrow branching structure. However, many people have Liquidambar trees for years without ever experiencing this problem, while others may experience this even on different species of trees.

The most obvious cause of branch failure would be a weak branch attachment. Branches that are poorly connected to the tree lack strength and may snap. This is especially a problem with trees that have been topped or severely pruned in the past. The new limbs are weakly attached and prone to breakage. Proper pruning and good species selection can prevent this type of branch breakage.

Given both the droopiness of the limbs and the season, the problem appears to be a weight issue. Excess weight could cause a break some distance from the point of attachment. Branches that grow out horizontally from the trunk are more susceptible to this than branches that grow at a slight upright angle.

A profuse fruit crop is one way to weigh down a limb. Clearly, Liquidambar balls are not hot items at your local produce stand, however, in high number on a branch, they are heavy. Fruit trees, including ornamental or flowering varieties, have similar problems if they set too much fruit, although fruit production is not consistent from year to year.

To avoid limb breakage from excess fruit, thin out fruit early in the season. It may even be necessary to prune the ends of fruiting branches to lighten the load. Chemical sprays such as growth regulators can be successful in reducing undesired fruit. They should only be applied by a professional.

Another cause of heavy branch breakage is commonly referred to as 'Summer Branch Drop' or 'Sudden Limb Drop'. This phenomenon has no real scientific explanation. Since it occurs on sound limbs on calm hot summer days, it appears to be caused by water stress. On a hot day the limb maximizes the amount of water it holds in order to conserve water. The branch gets very heavy and may break. Susceptible trees include Liquidambar, Silver Maple, Valley Oak, Blue Oak and Sycamore among others.

To minimize this potential hazard, it is possible to prune to lighten or shorten long horizontal branches. The best bet is to maintain tree health and to avoid susceptible species.

Planting for tomorrow...today.