Young trees need more frequent watering than mature trees which have more expansive root networks.
How much should I be watering my trees?

Young trees need more frequent watering than mature trees which have more expansive root networks. In particular, during a tree’s first 3-4 years, they are especially vulnerable to drought. The rootball of a newly planted tree should be watered twice a week to keep it moist (but not wet!). For young trees, 1-3 years old, the ‘8-10 Water Rule’ serves as a good guideline: 8-10 gallons every 8-10 days sometime between the hours of 8 p.m. and 10 a.m. Watering should soak the top 12 inches of soil. Avoid short, frequent watering as this usually does not penetrate deep enough and encourages surface roots. In extremely hot weather, it is necessary to double the frequency of watering your trees.
Unfortunately, leaves with brown edges are a signal of either over or under watering. Fortunately, everyone possesses the simple and inexpensive tools needed to test the soil: our hands and eyes. Dig down 6 inches outside the rootball before watering. If the soil is muddy and water squeezes out, it is too wet. If the soil is crumbly, it is too dry. The watering schedule will need to be adjusted in either case.
Mulch around the tree helps by shading the soil and reducing water evaporation. Keep mulch 4 inches from the trunk. Spread it 3 feet out and 4-6 inches deep.
Lastly, a berm around the tree to hold water helps to concentrate water to the roots. However, do not let water stand in this basin.

Top of Page
My tree looks like it's dying, can I be watering it too much?

Too much water is definitely a problem big enough to kill a tree. Roots growing in waterlogged soil may die because they cannot absorb the oxygen they need to function normally.
Oxygen is stored in tiny pore spaces in the soil. Excess water pushes the air out of the soil pores, cutting off the needed air supply and inviting root damage. The dying roots cannot supply the plant with sufficient nutrients or water.
This problem may not seem obvious above the ground due to the buds the tree put out early in spring. As spring approaches, the buds swell using nutrients stored from last fall. The real problem occurs when the concurrent root growth below ground is halted due to wet conditions.
A drainage problem can be exacerbated if the planting area was heavily amended when the plant was transplanted. The amended area is like a bathtub, since the water does not readily drain into the surrounding compacted soil.
The best way to be sure water was the problem is to take a look at the roots. Besides the presence of actual water in the hole, there are other indications. There may be an absence or lack of fine roots. The bark of existing roots may slough off and the soil may have a distinct odor.
Any indication of poor drainage cannot be remedied just by replacing the plant. It is important to correct the problem or choose another location and planting procedure. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Now you’re the doctor.

Planting for tomorrow...today.