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Young trees need more frequent watering
than mature trees which have more expansive root networks.
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How much
should I be watering my trees?
Young trees need more frequent watering than mature trees which
have more expansive root networks. In particular, during a tree’s
first 3-4 years, they are especially vulnerable to drought.
The rootball of a newly planted tree should be watered twice
a week to keep it moist (but not wet!). For young trees, 1-3
years old, the ‘8-10 Water Rule’ serves as a good
guideline: 8-10 gallons every 8-10 days sometime between the
hours of 8 p.m. and 10 a.m. Watering should soak the top 12
inches of soil. Avoid short, frequent watering as this usually
does not penetrate deep enough and encourages surface roots.
In extremely hot weather, it is necessary to double the frequency
of watering your trees.
Unfortunately, leaves with brown edges are a signal of either
over or under watering. Fortunately, everyone possesses the
simple and inexpensive tools needed to test the soil: our hands
and eyes. Dig down 6 inches outside the rootball before watering.
If the soil is muddy and water squeezes out, it is too wet.
If the soil is crumbly, it is too dry. The watering schedule
will need to be adjusted in either case.
Mulch around the tree helps by shading the soil and reducing
water evaporation. Keep mulch 4 inches from the trunk. Spread
it 3 feet out and 4-6 inches deep.
Lastly, a berm around the tree to hold water helps to concentrate
water to the roots. However, do not let water stand in this
basin.
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My tree looks like it's
dying, can I be watering it too much?
Too much water is definitely a problem big enough to kill a
tree. Roots growing in waterlogged soil may die because they
cannot absorb the oxygen they need to function normally.
Oxygen is stored in tiny pore spaces in the soil. Excess water
pushes the air out of the soil pores, cutting off the needed
air supply and inviting root damage. The dying roots cannot
supply the plant with sufficient nutrients or water.
This problem may not seem obvious above the ground due to the
buds the tree put out early in spring. As spring approaches,
the buds swell using nutrients stored from last fall. The real
problem occurs when the concurrent root growth below ground
is halted due to wet conditions.
A drainage problem can be exacerbated if the planting area was
heavily amended when the plant was transplanted. The amended
area is like a bathtub, since the water does not readily drain
into the surrounding compacted soil.
The best way to be sure water was the problem is to take a look
at the roots. Besides the presence of actual water in the hole,
there are other indications. There may be an absence or lack
of fine roots. The bark of existing roots may slough off and
the soil may have a distinct odor.
Any indication of poor drainage cannot be remedied just by replacing
the plant. It is important to correct the problem or choose
another location and planting procedure. An ounce of prevention
is worth a pound of cure. Now you’re the doctor.
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Planting for tomorrow...today. |
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